Denmark has been on my 'must see' list for almost a decade now, since I just seem to keep collecting friends from this down to earth country. The real reason to visit, was not just because I love Vikings (they grow on you, you know? After living in Ireland, and now here?), but I met my friend Kirsten the summer of 2002, when we were both lifeguards at Camp Nissokone in North Western Michigan (Oscoda). We bonded over impromptu dance parties in our cabin at night, laying out under the stars, and making up ridiculous relays for kid wearing flippers in the sand. It was probably more fun for us, than it was for them!
After camp was over for the summer, I dragged Kirsten pretty much all over the state of Michigan with me, introducing her to most of my friends and giving her a quick glimpse into the crazy life of college Jane. She still liked me after that, and we've been using Email and Facebook to try to stay in touch and reconnect ever since! I'm so happy it could work out this time!
Ryan and I spent a fast day and a half in Copenhagen, before starting the journey to friends. We liked the city, it reminded me of sort of a mixture between Prauge, Vienna, and a little Dublin thrown in for good measure. We explored all on foot, and wore out a walking map from the tourist information center, which helped me see almost all the sights, my favorites being walking through the main area of the royal palace around sunset and hearing the guards click their heels every time they had to stop and turn. Also, a beautiful park, and the Nyhavn part of town, which I guess added a twist of Amsterdam, with the canals to the Copenhagen mix. Food was a huge sticker shock of price. It's incredibly expensive here, and the one thing that Ryan truly wanted to see in Copenhagen was the Tivoli Gardens, which is a beautifully manicured theme park and garden right in the middle of the city. My roller coaster junkie of a husband was nearly crushed when we went to the gate and realized the sign said "Closed until October 12th to prepare for our Halloween Fest". We left on the 10th. Big huge sad face from Ryan. I hadn't seen him that sad since Thailand! The rain didn't help either, but you know what perked him up!? A true Danish hotdog from the food cart by the train station. We had just enough time to grab one the afternoon we left for Kirsten's in Fredericia, about a 3 hour train ride north east of Copenhagen. Good times were ahead.
I know hotdogs make Ryan smile, but another thing that makes him happy is small children. We met Kirsten and her 2 year old son, Laurits at the train station in Fredericia, and we both fell instantly in love with that kid, and him with us (I think!). It was so wonderful to see Kirsten again, after all these years, we still hit it off and had as much fun as ever, even though we are "old and tired," as she put it. I don't think it's true either, we had a blast!
We made dinner for Kirsten, Martin, her boyfriend and Lauits that night. Since we've been craving certain things, and of course making lists of those cravings in Ryan's iPhone, we had a long list of appetizers, main dishes, sides and desserts for our Danish friends to choose from. We were able to stop at the grocery store, which is, even more than lists of foods, one of our foodie activities we love- checking out the supermarkets of all the countries we visit. Many an hour has been spent wandering around grocery stores in various countries on this trip, but instead of focusing on how nerdy this makes us, we chalk it up to creating a taste of culture in each pocket of the world. In any case, we were able to get all the fixins for a delicious meal of meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and homemade chocolate chip cookies. In between catching up with Kirsten in her 70s Danish style kitchen, with the afternoon sun pouring through the wall of windows, and playing trains with Laurtis, we whipped up dinner and were able to finally sit down to a cozy little dinner together when Martin got home from work. Hygge!
We had a great sleep there, and every time I woke up a little I thought, I'm at Kirsten's in Denmark, and I'd feel all warm. It's been too long! Kirsten had to work, so we spent the next day wandering around the little town of Fredericia, enjoying the fall weather, hiking along the ramparts of the old town wall, and having a long lazy lunch in a little cafe under the apartment that Kirsten used to live in. Very nice, calm, Ryan and I had a great time laughing and talking over lunch. We have to start thinking about the next steps coming up when we get home- buying a car, spending a week in New Jersey and New York, driving to Michigan, then finding an apartment and moving to Chicago, and I'll be starting my job search. Hmmmm...lots it plan and think about. A little overwhelming!
That evening we were so grateful to be invited to Kirsten's parents home, about 15 minutes away. I knew it was going to be a good night when, as we were driving, saw the most complete and vibrant rainbow arched across the dark clouds plated by bright sunshine to our backs. It was spectacular! We thought maybe the fact that they were getting a new car that day made them very lucky!
As we drove up the cul de sac street, I'm pretty sure we were in some sort of car commercial, as the parents come out to hug and greet us, Kirsten ran to meet Martin and jumped in her new silver car, while little blonde Laurits squealed with glee as he was kissed by his grandparents and ran around the yard a bit. Sometimes you wonder what it might be like to be a fly on the wall, just to get a glimpse of the lives of others, but sometimes, your lucky enough to be invited to peek! The whole night felt a little like that, maybe a scene out of a magazine or something. We sat drinking pre-dinner beers in the family room by the computer, I had Laurits on my lap, looking through Thomas the tank engine train videos on you tube and Kirsten's dad jovially talking away with us all, translating when Laurits wanted new videos, and checking in on Kirsten's mom in the kitchen every so often to see how the bacon wrapped stuffed pork roast and roasted veggies were coming. It smelled good, it felt good, and it was another travel moment that really can't be duplicated. Really nice to be with a family again. The many months on the road make me truly appreciate those times. They have mastered Hygge in that house.
We ended on a good note, because sadly, that was about all the time we had with Kirsten, since we had to set off again the next morning to see my friend Lena in Aarhus. This is the second largest city in Denmark, and definitely had the Dublin vibe to it.!
Lena is another amazing friend that I met traveling up the East coast of Australia 7 years ago. We hit it off right away, swimming across a little pond, taking dumb pictures across Australia, and web though I was traveling faster than she was, we made it a point to meet up again along the road. What a fun girl! So fun, in fact that we've meeting up around the world ever since! In 2008, she met me in Paris, and last summer she came to Ryan and my wedding, and then a few weeks later after she traveled around the US a bit, she came to stay with us in New York the same weekend Rainstorm Irene hit. Needless to say , Lena and I have been through a lot, and I couldn't wait to see her in her home environment.
Again, another apartment that had true Danish style and a warm sense of Hygge. A darling little apartment that was actually the top rented portion of a house, with a backyard balcony, a cozy kitchen, and candles everywhere, creating a glow to the place. We live it here! She was even sweet enough to give us her room for the 4 nights! That Lena, what a gal!
More delicious food galore in Aarhus, with Lena. Friday night was spent out with her friend Nia at a French restraint that Lena had a free meal promise to her by the owner (she designed his website). Saturday found us examining the lives of the Danes in the olden days at the Old City, which was a town of transplanted homes from various centuries that showed a real life version of Denmark's history. Quite impressive, and very quaint. The Danish butter cookies from the little bakery were the best!
Sunday we took the bus from Ye city center(after we missed the first one, it was a debacle, don't ask). We took in rainy day views of the countryside as we made our way about an hour north to the little town of Ebletoft for the Apple Festival. Despite the somewhat drizzly weather, we enjoyed the crafts, meeting Lena's woodworker uncle, tasting the cheeses, breads, spreads, goat sausage,fish cakes, apple fritters, cider and glugg, a Danish mulled wine. All perfect for a rainy Sunday afternoon.
Once we returned home and dried off, I made Lena my mom's famous Hamburger soup and Ryan made deviled eggs. Two more off the random list, can you tell?! All was Hygge then too! Oh Denmark, you are so cozy!
We slept in a bit today, and Lena was able to make all things right with the world when she told us that the Tuvoli of Aarhus was OPEN! They also decorated for Halloween, therefore, all Ryan's hopes and dreams were fulfilled by riding roller coasters and visit fun houses at Tivoli after all! Yes! And, yo tip it off, Lena made us a traditional Danish meal tonight as well! If I were a cat, id be purring!
So, luck and Hygge have found us in Denmark! I hope to take it with me on to London and beyond. Thanks to everyone in Denmark who has made us feel so welcome and loved and cozy/warm!
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