Traversing rock gardens and nudity in Busan

I (Ryan) am admittedly  not an adventurous traveler (when informed of this fact, Jane shouted, "WHAT?! NOW you tell me?!").  I could just as well spend the next two months seeing a museum each day, while spending evenings relaxing in a hotel pool.  Yesterday, Jane and I satisfied my first urge by visiting the Beomeosa temple in Busan.  The temple was idyllically set in the mountains of Busan.  We spent our time wandering through the temple grounds, climbing a garden of rocks, and experiencing the mountain views, while walking (and sweating) a lot. But what about relaxation?

Ever the helpful guide, Jane shepherded me to a Korean bath (jjimjilbang) at the Hotel Nong Shim.  The Hurshimchung Spa there features dozens of pools and saunas, a helpful staff, and the occasional English translation.  It also required that Jane and I venture into separate male and female areas, leaving me on my own to confront the Korean language.

Jane and I agreed to meet about 10 minutes after entry in the unisex "Grand Resting Room."  I started by stowing my shoes and clothes in an assigned locker, and then making my way to the showers and baths.  Of course, this required me to be completely naked.  While I have no issues with nudity under ordinary circumstances, I needed to locate the showers, arrange a robe rental, and find the "Grand Resting Room" all without the luxuries of pants or a rudimentary understanding of Korean.  After forty minutes (fifteen of which were spent in a milk bath soaking/sulking after giving up any hope of locating Jane or making my way back home), I finally figured out how to rent my robe—which even at XXXL (Korean size) was comically tight.  I finally located Jane nervously waiting outside the men's locker room, praying that I had found the strength to not board a plane back home just yet.

We lazed together in small, igloo shaped saunas, resting on the mats with nothing but a surprisingly comfortable wood block for a pillow.  We ate delightful noodles in the spa restaurant and soothed our nerves before returning to our respective bath houses for some soaking time.

Korean baths are not for the faint of heart.  As a fairly chubby American, I was quite the novelty, and found a number of men staring at my figure upon my return.  But Jane could not have picked a better place.  I switched from hot spas to frigid pools and marveled at the huge selection (milk, salt, "cavern," philosophy, and waterfall baths just to name a few).  I lounged in a half-dozen saunas ranging from 10-90° C (50-194° F).  And even though I could not work up the courage to get a massage, I did receive an incredibly thorough Korean scrubbing.  I think I might have lost a pound just from all the dead skin they removed. 

All in all, while initially terrifying, I can heartily recommend a stay at a jjimjilbang.  My only advice: bring a friend.